Oamaru - Where The Past Meets The Future

Where the Past Meets the Future

Oamaru architecture an attraction all by itself
Oamaru is the largest town of North Otago in New Zealand's South Island, it lies on State Highway One, 80 km south of Timaru and 120 km north of Dunedin, on the Pacific coast. The name Oamaru apparently derives from Maori words meaning the place of Maru who exact Maru is remains open to speculation. European settlers arrived in the Oamaru area in the 1850s and the town grew as a service centre for the agricultural/pastoral hinterland between the Kakanui Mountains and the Waitaki River, and rapidly became a major port in the region. In recent time the town has seen what one local described not so much as a change but “more a clean up”, with the restoration of many of the towns Victorian style historic building and big drive for the town (with a large contribution from The Oamaru Whitesotne civic Trust (see http://www.historicoamaru.co.nz/) to collectively embrace the heritage behind such fantastic architecture.
And embrace it they have so that every year the town launches a Heritage festival (this year November 12 -16nth with a Fete held on the 16nth) which embraces a time when ‘God, Britannia and ‘Cold Steel’ made the Empire great. Yet fear not if you happen to miss this fantastic festival for down in the south end of Oamaru is the Historic Precinct, which harbors a collection of specialty shops (like the must see Woolstore), bakeries, cafes bars, done in the flavor of old Victoria (with a mixture of contemporary art and esoteric thrown in for good measure). That is to say lace, corsets, tweed, penny farthings and lashing of whisky abound. Mixed together this combination of the best of British often producing interesting results - which when seen up close first hand - goes a long way to explaining the suicidal nature of a time and era which produced such fine military feats as the Zulu Massacre and the Charge of light Brigade. The Precinct is located at the town’s south end at the end of Thames St where you will also find an information site and possibly the cleanest toilets in the South Island. Oamaru is town which takes civic pride and community very seriously.



Traditionally the weekends are perhaps the best time to see the precinct when the precinct weekend markets are in full swing. Asides from talking to the store owners, many of whom tend to be walking historic encyclopedias, there is of course, for historic information, also the town museum. In many cases Museums in small NZ town tend to be sad tragic affairs and slightly less interesting than watching paint dry. Yet in this case the Oamaru Museum, though not the London Metropolitan Museum of History and Arts, is an impressive and professional effort with a dedicated (and knowledgeable) staff that have really gone the distance to produce something that has genuine soul. This is also true of the Oamaru official gallery the Forrester Art Gallery (www.forrester.co.govt.nz). The Forrester, curatored by Warick Smith, manages to be true to its grand Victorian Exterior while simultaneously doing justice to the galleries modern reputation for keeping up with contemporary art as well. With this in mind it is unsurprising to discover that when a film company, was seeking a location for a Sci Fi Vampire movie (Heavenly Creatures) they chose the precinct as their back drop. Mind you real life Vampire would never dream of coming to Oamaru principally because when it comes to things that are Spooky they would find Oamaru just too crowed.

Otago’s Outer Limits

The town has a rich vein of stories relating to things that go bump in the night and aside from the fact that virtually every building in the town (or at less the precinct) seems to host it own resident ghost the towns Outer Limits include the notorious ‘Spring Heel’ Jack who is said to hang around an alley (reputed to be a red light district) located next to the towns hospital and was sighted in 1904. The name of this Oamaru ‘poltergeist’ apparition comes from the name given for the hoof “footed” like figure who first terrorised London in 1840 before finally killing his first victim (by drowning her) a young prostitute in 1847 in broad day light, in front of multiple witnesses, including police officers, 41 years before the White Chapel prostitute murders made ‘Jack the Ripper’ a house hold name. Who knows may Jack like to do a bit of traveling as well.

Oamaru’s Spring Heel Jack however has nothing on the great Oamaru UFO flap of 1904 which started on July 19th three residents of Oamaru reported seeing "a flickering light." Hardly a big deal except archives show UFO were seen up and down Otago coast and include a sightings in Oamaru on July 28 were an “air ship” with light attached was seen by half dozen witness between 6.30 and 9pm heading towards the Kakanui mountains at great speed. At 2am the same “airship” (or another) came down over Dunedin resulting in a resident in the North Eastern Valley reporting a horrible noise “like a ship dragging her anchor up or a windlass of a steamer with dry-gear wheels working.” A second North East Dunedin resident would report seeing an airship floating up past Knox College “It was a great black thing with a searchlight attached.'" These sighting were followed by a farmer in Gore who heard a strange whirring sound on July 30th which frightened his animals. On looking out his window the farmer saw an “airship” 150 feet long with head and taillights moving so fast that, when he woke up his mates, the lights were faint in the distance. From July 19nth to August 1st similar sightings were reported in the provincial paper up and down the country. It worth noting that this was not the age of the internet so the chance of one witness having read something and then acting in a copy cut fashion can be ruled out.


Left Oamaru Spring Heel Jack appears in Oamaru St just 4 year before Oamaru great “airship flap” of 1909. 2008 UFO over Auckland get NZ Air force admitting UFO are also been seen in Otago 2008 Chem trail over Kakanui Mountains.
Early this year Oamaru place as location rich in recent sightings was given a mentioned in connection to photograph of UFO photographed over Auckland and has been listed on a number of websites dealing with the phenomenon of chemtrails which since 2007 have been commonly reported and photographed in the skies above North Otago as well. Cardiff it would seem is not the only place where things fall in and out time rift like a changing room on sales day but never fear for Oamaru fierce paramilitary force Alf Imperia Army (Oamaru: 8th Whitestone Grenadiers & NO HOPERS) are well equipped to deal with exterrestrial threat and only last year taught the ‘Martians from H.G. Wells War of the Worlds’ a lesson they wont soon forget with their biological (spaghetti firing) cannon. When the brave soldiers of Alf are not battling Martian they are quite happy to deal to the undead, Cthulhu Cultists, McGillicuddy Highlanders, the Labour Party (Red Helens Cossacks), a Spanish Armada, Zulus, the ‘Ancient Time Lords’ of K.A.O.S. (Killing as an Organised Sport) and the scariest foe of them all school children. In one memorial occasion ALF Oamaru detachment also waged war on the multination Telecom (some might say this still falls under the heading of undead) when they joined force with the Christchurch regiments of the Alf Imperial army and Invercargill Light Rangers during their assistance of the Wizard of Christchurch (these days retired and living in Oamaru) battle to prevent the communication giant from changing the colors of phone boxes Red to Blue*
The Great Wizard vs Telecom Wars of 1990’s



(Left) In Red Jackets and pith Helmets they proudly yell “RETREAT!” for Queen & Emperor these brave lad bravely flee. (Right) the other kind of phone box that would feel right at home in Oamaru.

Technically the Wizard won the battle against Telecom except that ‘thirty seconds’ after Telecom stated they would stop painting phone boxes blue Telecom ripped out all of the old style phone booths and replaced them with ‘vandal proof’ card eating monstrosities that resembled Darleks that rarely work due to the fact they having been rendered inoperable by vandals

*For the sake of not been lynched the troopers in this picture are not the 8th White stone Grenadiers (&other No Hopers) but are unidentified Alf troopers from the Waitati Militia further South

Traditionally such battles take the form of frenzied advances followed by their greates secret strategy (lures them into a false sense of superiority) the frenzied retreat. Armed with such wicked weapons of war, such as the dreaded newspaper swords, the flower bomb (and more recently as note the questionable introduction of biological weapons or to be more specific a spaghetti firing cannon) skirmishes are viscous and both the local side and the marauding visitors in a gentlemanly way will receive first aid (usually consisting of large doses of whisky from the New Zealand Malt Whisky Company [www.nzmaltwhisky.co.nz] delivered by such benevolent spirits as the ‘Oamaru Brownies’ or an army of Florence ‘Nightingales’, usually led by one of Oamaru’s best known artists Donna Demente.


DONNA DEMENTE (Left) ‘Captain’ MICHEL OBRIEN (Right- right) ‘BOOKBINDER’

DONNA DEMENTE (Left) MICHEL OBRIEN (RIight) ‘BOOKBINDER’

Donna Demente art (for a good example of her art visit the Grain store Gallery or even Short Black on Tyne St) is not only seen though out Otago but exhibits in Auckland studios regularly as well. In combination with partner and musician Geoff Smith Demente played a key role in setting up the Grainstore Trust. The Trust has insured that Oamaru artistic reputation community continues to thrive not only regionally but over the last decade the town has rapidly become a sanctuary for other New Zealand artists trying to escape a world which “went and got it self in darn hurry. Other Oamaru artist prominent to the towns art scene include Kate Kaevoc Watt Davies who exhibits not only at the Grain Store but at Oamaru’s Gallery & Picture Framers (Thames St). In addition the town art scene also includes the Soap Factory, the work of Dawnn Mann at Whisky Art (located upstairs above the Malt Whisky House round the corner from the criterion. In addition a trip to the gallery provides yet another opportunity to try the town’s fine vino and vittles. However if you don’t need an excuse to do this then go straight to the Criterion (http://www.criterion.net.nz/t), built in 1877, which has fine selections of whisky served with expert knowledge.

The Criterion also does a pretty dam fine ploughman lunch and even provides accommodation (just don’t ask about room 22 – reportedly occupied by one of the towns many ghosts) for those really planning to get down to the business of historic reenactment via ones liver. Alternatively try the Claredon’s fine selection of Emersons, a Dunedin boutique brew, which like Oamaru strives for a time when quality not mass productions still ruled. Emerson is a beer lovers dream. Emerson’s links to the town also relate to one of it beers the Book Binder said to be named after the sterling efforts of senior Alf Officer, Captain Michael O’Brien, who also runs the precincts historic printing business The name Book Binder which located down stairs next to Slightly Fox a shop not of this world. Slightly Fox is ‘That Shop’! the one you find at the back of the wardrobe.

A touch of the wardrobe is also to be found at the Last Post where a Pith Helmeted Gentleman can be found blowing a bugle (hopefully not Taps). Sadly the Post does not serve Emerson’s but it does have a wide range of other beverage and comprehensive menu. If you are more a wine and a window person you might consider telling every one that your off to see the penguins when in fact your off to Port Side which is the ideal place to go if the Oamaru seas and winds are wishing to put on a show. It is rather quite amazing to think when you look at Oamru full wine and dining option to think that this is the same town which had to endure years of abstinence during prohibition (pro prohibitionist referring to Oamaru as a town of iniquity) in 1905. Prohibition in Omaru led one historian to note that in the last hour before prohibition one hotel (kiwi version of saloon) raised the Skull & Cross Bones. The Hotel in question is sadly not noted by the historian in question but the probability is the establishment in question was the Star & Garters. The Star & Garter (open for breakfast lunch and dinner) is the towns oldest dining establishment and backs on to the Masonic Hall which remains a seriously impressive structure for any one with a ‘Grand Eye’ for Victorian architecture.*

One can only speculate the role played by Prohibition in the Oamaru sightings of Spring Heel Jack and Airships





Fast forwarding to the 21st Century Fat Sally 84 Thams St is an establishment which shows that the dreaded days of prohibition are well over asides from semi regular live music on Fridays and weekends the bar is favorite haunt of locals and good place to go for those wanting to strike up conversation and have a good night (and yes there is a Fat Sally). The ton in fact harbors a number of great little night spots and restaurants such as Filadelfios Pizza and Vincent’s fine dining ( the town also offers ethic food ranging from Indian Turkish and Chinese) and includes a night club (The Globe – located on Thames St).

In the morning the effects of the night before can be washed away with a good cup of coffees such as those found at Latitude 45 Steam (Thames ST) Short Black or a good farmers breakfast such as the one served at Bean on Thames (***) who tried to use as many of the region local produce as possible which in light that Oamaru is also the centre of Chinese Market Garden community is saying quite a lot. Another venue worth mentioning for it use of local produce and their excellent level of service is Kitchen Stone located at the Northern end of the town by the Waimate river where you can do a spot f fishing or take a jet boat ride for about a third of the price that you will get charged in Queenstown.


Young & Old Janet Frame

Another heroine, who has done much for Oamaru reputation, as a bastion of arts and those with a serious literary bend, is Janet Frame the NZ writer who was destine for lobotomy but won, just in time, a major international award which led the doctors of the time to realised that Frame was not mad ‘just sensitive which personally I thinks says a lot about the medical profession as a whole’ Freed from the loonie bin relative wealth and prosperity soon followed Frame and Frame was able to pay to afford the medical treatment she need to fix her teeth which up until that time had caused her excruciating pain leading this author for one to wonder if this had a factor in her “sensitive” emotional state of being.

Janet Frames house can be found at Eden St where it now looked by the Janet Frame Literary Trust (http://www.janetframe.org.nz/) and hosts a a 1 ½ hr tour of sites in Oamru important to Janet Frame used in many of her books. The walk begins at the Visitor Information Centre at 1 Thames Street, and takes you around places that are mentioned in Owls Do Cry, The Envoy from the Mirror City, Face in the Water and To the Is-land.
Frame ‘bad’ uncle house is yet another reason why Janet was kind of sensitive and the house along with a creek fill of the cries of children (thought to have drowned in the river) is the source of yet another local legend concerning Frame though it is not mentioned in official the tour. Her uncle’s house is found next to the Wild Tyne Gourmet Burgers (their burger rock by the way) opposite the Top Ten Camping Grounds. The more you lean of Frames early year the more blue you are likely to feel.
Luckily Oamaru can also assist travelers on this front with their world legendary Penguin Club (there a waiting list of musicians who want to play there) which since it opened in 1990 has attracted a host of names and is very much of the list of any musician doing a circuit of NZ live venues. It never hurts to check in advance what’s on as the Club (http://www.thepenguinclub.co.nz/) for like most incorporated societies it has it high and low seasons.

WHITE STONE TAXIS PHONE 03 434 1234.
The Penguin Entertainers Club
P.O. Box 473, Oamaru, New Zealand
bottlekneck@hotmail.com
http://www.thepenguinclub.co.nz/
This advice is also true of accommodation in Oamaru, where the research factor is added to by the fact and street of Oamaru are as long as a cold war soviet food que. Thus it is important, when staying in Oamaru to work out how far away your accommodation is from the parts of the town you wish to see and to ask your self if your not driving, or are planning to visit some of the towns night spots, how you well get their and back again. You might wish to check, in advance, that if your accommodation is further (than comfortable) than walking distance if your hosts have courtesy van or some other arrangement for trafficking their guests around.

Or if you prefer a more leisurely form of transport try the steam train down at the precinct. True as it a day time incursion its not much good for seeing Oamaru night action but well get you to the colony and after all no visit to Oamaru is really complete if you really want the I’ve been there have the T-Shirt experience as the Penguin Colony. Going to Oamaru and not seeing the penguins is bit like going to Disney land and not going for a ride on the Magic Mountain and you have admit they are kind of cute..


The Little Penguin (Eudyptula minor) is the smallest species of penguin. It is found on the coastlines of southern Australia and New Zealand and has several common names. In Australia, they are often referred to as Fairy Penguins because of their tiny size. In NZ they are called Little Blue Penguins, or just Blue Penguins, owing to their indigo-blue plumage, and in Maori they are called Kororā in Maori. The Little Penguin typically grows to 43 cm (16 in) tall and weighs about 1kg (2.2 pounds). The male is larger than the female, although plumage is similar. The head and upperparts are indigo, with slate-grey ear coverts fading to white underneath, from the chin to the belly. The flippers are indigo above and white below. The average life span for the species is 6.5 years, but individuals have been known to live for over 20+ years. Blue penguins feed by hunting fish and other small sea animals, for which they travel and dive quite extensively. Little Penguins typically return to their colonies to feed their chicks at dusk; the birds will come ashore in small groups to provide some defense against predators (like the NZ Fur Seal) which might pick off individuals one by one.
Oamaru is town of great charm humor warmth imagination and mystery and it is fantastic gate way to Coastal Otago, where you will get to see hear smell and taste a piece of NZ that is completely unique to the world. We hope this introduction inspires you to come with us and explore a world and time which even few New Zealanders would know exists.

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